Our trip starts today at our hotel near the airport at 5:00 pm. We'll spend some time getting to know each other, then head out to dinner in one of Seattle's famous neighborhoods: Alki Beach. If it's clear, in one direction we can see downtown Seattle across Elliott Bay; in the other, we can see the Olympic Peninsula, our destination for the rest of the trip. After a stroll along the beach and dinner, we'll head back to our hotel to sleep and prepare for our adventure ahead.

The day begins with our journey out to Lake Crescent, highlighted by one of the most quintessential northwest experiences: a ride on one of the Washington State Ferries. The ferries are one of the lifelines linking the Olympic Peninsula to the rest of the state, and often provide good views of the Puget Sound and Cascade and Olympic Mountains. After the ferry, another hour and a half by van brings us to Lake Crescent. Here we will get have lunch and go paddling for the afternoon. You will don your wetsuit and head out on the lake. The paddle is perfect for beginners and more experienced paddlers too. Lake Crescent is a deep glacier-carved lake known for its brilliant blue waters and exceptional clarity, caused by a lack of nitrogen in the water which inhibits the growth of algae. The official depth of the lake is 624 ft! It has captured the imaginations of many - including President Franklin Roosevelt, who was so enamored of the area (including the Roosevelt Cottages at Lake Crescent Lodge) that he was inspired to establish the park in 1938. If weather conditions permit you will paddle on the north side of the lake, to "Devils Punch Bowl", a popular swimming and diving area.

This morning we will visit Glines Canyon, a great spot to understand the recent changes to the Elwha Dam removal and restoration project. Two dams were built on the Elwha in 1913 and 1927; without fish ladders they quickly decimated what had been a prosperous salmon run. After decades of mounting environmental concerns, along with inefficiencies that came from being older dams, Congress authorized their removal in 1992. In the last couple of years, after 20 years of study, planning, and partnerships between numerous groups, the dams finally came down, with the removal of the second one completed in 2014. We will hike to "Goblin Gates" - a dramatic set of rock outcrops that constrict the Elwha's swift waters. This wilder section of the river is above the two old dams and gives a sense of what the Elwha was like before the dams were installed. There will be a couple of hiking options after enjoying your lunch along the river. Once back at the Lodge, we'll enjoy dinner in the old dining room, and have the evening to do as we please - stroll along the shore, chat with new friends, or curl up with a good book in an Adirondack chair by the lake

After breakfast, we say goodbye to the old lodge and head for the western side of the park. The west side is a land of water - of coastal beaches and copious rain. Today's hike to Third Beach is a classic Olympic beach hike, and begins with a 1.3 mile hike through relatively open (for the Pacific Northwest) forest. A short, somewhat steep descent brings us to the beach along Strawberry Bay, a long, grey-sand expanse bounded by steep headlands at each end. As we walk to the south end of the beach, we get a better view of off-shore seastacks; we'll also see lots of shorebirds, big and small. For more adventure, we'll climb up and over Taylor Point to the next beach south. Climbing over headlands is always an interesting scramble, and Taylor Point is no exception; our ascent will have us using well-placed ropes (for a helping hand up steep slopes) and giant cable ladders (picture a cross between stairs and a ladder). Once up top, we'll traverse 1.2 miles through the forest, paying particular attention to the rooty, ankle-twisty sections; steep steps bring us down to the shore on the other side. If the tide is in, we'll use ropes again to go over a final small headland to a bigger beach. While the trails in the park are usually busy during the summer months, this beach is often less populated, and gives us the chance to see seastacks, kelp beds, and perhaps even an otter. Tonight we'll stay in Forks, a town with a Cinderella-in-Vampire-Clothes story. Forks, like many smaller towns in the Pacific Northwest, was economically hard-hit during the 1990s when the logging industry bottomed out. After years of slow decline and scarce jobs, an author who had never even been to Forks (Stephenie Meyer) used the town as her setting for a tale of life, love, and vampires that became an international sensation. Soon, the town was the epicenter for all things Twilight, and the subsequent books and movies have propelled the town to the top of the "must-see" list for tourists worldwide. This economic windfall has helped Forks recover somewhat, and now the town is a mix of Twilight shops, weather-worn restaurants, outdoor outfitters, and logging-related businesses. (Beach only: 3.6-4.6 miles, 300' gain. Beach and Taylor Point: 6 sometimes-rugged miles, 550' gain.)

The temperate rain forests of the Hoh River valley are a grandiose, almost meditative counterpoint to yesterday's cliff scrambling and ocean waves. As the miles go by on this flat, out-and-back hike through forests near the river, first the big trees - sitka spruces, cedars, maples - catch our attention. Then, the little details start to catch our eyes: mosses draped over huge branches. Red huckleberries juxtaposed against decaying nurse logs. Armies of sword ferns. You can go as far as you like today; the riverside near the junction with the Mount Tom trail (3 miles in), the grove of massive cedars at Cougar Creek (4 miles in) both provide natural turn-around points.

Today we leave the damp west side of the park behind and head back to the north side. While today's adventure isn't in the park itself, no visit to this area would be complete without exploring the saltwater shores along the Strait of Juan de Fuca. We'll explore Freshwater Bay by kayak; depending on conditions, we may head east to the mouth of the Elwha River, where we can take in a new beach that's being formed from years of dammed-up sediment. Or, we might paddle west, along rocky shores and cliffs. Either way, we'll catch a glimpse of the saltwater soul of this area, complete with kelp forests and rocky intertidal areas teeming with marine life. If we're lucky, we might even see sea lions, seals, otters, or bald eagles as we glide across the green-blue bay. Tonight we head to Port Angeles, the small city sandwiched between the Olympic Mountains and the Strait of Juan de Fuca. This city, a gateway to the park and to Canada (via the ferry to Victoria), will serve as our home for the last two nights of the trip. (6-8 miles of paddling

Our last day in the park brings us to new heights, literally and figuratively. After breakfast, we'll drive up to the Hurricane Ridge Visitor Center, which gives us a great first view into the heart of the mountains. From here, the views keep getting better as we drive another 8 miles along a ridge-top gravel road to reach the Obstruction Point trailhead; at 6100', we'll feel almost like we're on top of the world. Our hike starts with a gradual climb above tree-line along Obstruction Ridge, with breathtaking mountain views, wildflowers, and the occasional snowy patch along the way. From a high point of 6500', the trail drops 1700' in 2.5 miles down into Grand Valley. The reward for this steep descent is Grand Lake, a beautiful mountain lake nestled in a giant bowl. Another half mile brings us to Moose Lake, which is perhaps even grander; sharp Olympic peaks provide a spectacular backdrop to this gem of an alpine lake. We'll linger here as long as we can before we begin the climb back out. Along the way, we might hear the call of the endemic Olympic marmot while we soak up the beautiful views in every direction. (8 - 9 miles, 1700' of gain.

Our journey home begins with another drive to a ferry, this time one that will bring us into downtown Seattle. Depending on ferry lines, we may have time to explore the charming town of Winslow (and get treats from the renowned Blackbird Bakery) while we wait. As we cross Puget Sound, if it's clear we can see the Olympic Mountains - and where we just hiked - from a whole new perspective. We'll finish with lunch in the ever-popular Pike Place Market, a favorite Seattle destination of locals and tourists alike. Pike Place Market has been a farmer's market since 1907, and today boasts 190 craftspeople and 100 farmers, along with more than 200 businesses - including the original Starbucks. With great views of the water and Olympics, and fresh local food, we'll celebrate our adventure together before we say our final farewells. If you want to stay and explore more of what Seattle and this area has to offer, you are welcome to depart after lunch (around 2 pm). We'll be within easy walking distance of many city bus routes and light rail to the train station and airport. Otherwise, we can have you to Sea-Tac airport by 3 pm; since summer Saturdays are busy with departing cruise passengers at Sea-Tac, we recommend you plan your flights for 5 pm or later.