Lying almost forgotten for years behind the Iron Curtain, Bulgaria
remains one of the continent's best kept secrets. Our trip provides the
opportunity to discover the amazingly rich cultural and natural
heritage of Bulgaria's remote Rhodope, Pirin and Rila Mountains, with
plenty of opportunity to interact with local people and learn about
their way-of-life. In particular our trip offers a unique insight into
the local Pomak (Bulgarian Muslim) community as much of our time will
be spent staying in and walking amongst traditional Muslim villages. By
way of contrast, we will also visit four of Bulgaria's most striking
Orthodox Christian monasteries! And the natural history is equally
fascinating: during our hikes, there will be excellent opportunities to
see a fascinating variety of rare flora and fauna.
at the Sofia airport (SOF) the afternoon of July 5 (most flights arrive between 1 and 2:30 pm)
July 5: Arrive Sofia and transfer (2 hours 15 minutes) to the town of Asenovgrad on the northern slopes of the Rhodope Mountains. Tonight we'll stay in an attractively restored traditional 19th century mansion.
July 6:
We start the day with a drive to the 9th century Asenova Fortress, perched on rocks at the mouth of the Chepelarska Gorge. The fortress is a part of the Rodopi line
fortresses which guarded the northern Byzantine territories from the
invasions of the Slavs and was an important protector of the Bachkovo
Monastery, the second largest in Bulgaria. As well as looking around the
monastery itself, we will also have a gentle walk in the beautiful
valley behind it. At the edge of a botanic reserve, we will find
several interesting chapels tucked away in the forest. After a picnic
lunch we drive on into the heart of the Rhodope Mountains, stopping off
at the picturesque village of Shiroka Luka, famous for its traditional
architecture. From there we complete our transfer to Yagodina village,
a very remote and friendly mountain settlement which is inhabited by
Pomatsi (members of the Bulgarian Muslim minority). Here we will stay
in a small family run hotel offering a warm welcome and wonderful
home-cooked food.
Walking Time = 2 hours; ascent and descent is about 600 ft.
July 7:
We start the day with a visit Yagodina Cave. This is one of the most spectacular in the country and has numerous stalagmites, stalactites and other unusual cave formations. Having visited the cave we climb out of the Buinovsko Gorge and then set off on foot across the mountains following the line of a former Roman Road to the neighboring Trigrad Gorge. There we visit the Dyavolsko Gurlo (Devils Throat) Cave, an enormous cavern from which Orpheus is said to have emerged from the Underworld. This whole karst limestone region between the two caves is famed for its amazingly rich flora, which includes many endemic species.
Walking Time = 3 hours; 1000 ft ascent and 300 ft descent
July 8: Setting off on foot from the hotel, we follow a short but beautiful trail that drops down into the Buinovo Gorge beneath the breath-taking crags of Mt. Sveti Iliya. Rejoining our bus for a 10 minute ride down the gorge, we then resume our walk by hiking through the rugged Kastraklia Nature Reserve, home to numerous butterflies and birds, as well as a small population of Chamois. Our hike ends in the village of Borino, from where we have a picturesque drive (3 hours) west through the Rhodope Mountains. Finally we spend the night at the small provincial town of Gotse Delchev which is located in the valley of the river Mesta. Walking Time = 4 hours; Ascent = 1350 ft; Descent = 1000 ft
July 9: We start the day driving to the tiny village of Leshten, an architectural reserve famed for its
vernacular architecture. we spend the morning exploring on foot the deeply cut valley of the river Kanina where the local authorities have been working hard to establish a spectacular new eco-trail. Later we drive on to the village of Breznitsa where we will be welcomed as guests by some local Pomak (Bulgarian Muslim) women. As well as showing and explaining about their rich tradition of weaving and handicraft making, they will also prepare us a home-made lunch possibly accompanied by some traditional folk songs. Leaving the village, we then drive across the southern Pirin Mountains via the Popovi Livadi pass to arrive in Melnik, the smallest and perhaps most beautiful town in Bulgaria, stunningly set in an amazing sandstone gorge.
Walking Time = 3-4 hours; Ascent = 300 ft; Descent = 1300 ft
July 10: Today is a full day spent exploring the Melnik region
on foot. First we make our way to the village of Kurlanovo, from where
we climb up to the remote Chapel of Sveti Iliya. We then drop down to
the village of Rozhen for lunch, before making our way on to the nearby
Rozhen Monastery. This monastery, one of the most picturesque and
tranquil in Bulgaria and one of the few Bulgarian monasteries from the
Middle Ages, has survived relatively intact up to present days. Having
looked round the monastery, we then complete our walk back to Melnik by
following a spectacular trail through a labyrinth of sandstone
pinnacles, ridges and gorges.
Walking Time = 4 hours; ascent and descent is about 1350 ft.
July 11:
We begin the day with an early morning hike on the Sveti Nikola elevation above Melnik where there are ruins of several churches and monasteries as well as an old fortress. The hill also offers superb views over the surrounding region. Leaving Melnik we travel north up the Struma Valley, and
then cut back east into the heart of the Rila mountains. Here we will
visit the Rila Monastery. This is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is beautifully located beneath the Rila Mountains highest peaks. We'll start with a visit to the hermitage of St John of
Rila and have the opportunity to purify ourselves as we climb out a
tunnel from his cave (this is optional). We will then take a short walk
in the surrounding Rila Monastery Nature Park to the monastery
itself. We'll take time to look at the many icons and soak up the
atmosphere of the monastery itself. Later in the afternoon, we transfer
to the other side of the range and our hotel at Borovets, the
most famous Rila resort.
Walking Time (Sveti Nikola) = 1 hour; ascent and descent are about 450 ft
Walking Time (Rila Monastery) = 1 hour; ascent is about 600 ft, descent is 300 ft
July 12: Climbing Mt. Musala (9600 ft) the highest peak not only in Bulgaria but
on the whole of the Balkan Peninsula, is a fitting finale to our holiday.
Using a cabin-lift to take us up from Borovets to 7,600 ft, we then set
off on foot to climb the peak. The first part of the hike follows a
long ridge to the ruins of a former Soviet-era ski project before
starting steadily up. From there the ascent is steep and rocky in
places, but very rewarding. However, as this is an out and back walk,
it is possible for those who don't want to do the whole climb to stop
off at a couple of convenient refuges and wait for the rest of the
party to return. We will return to Borovets on the same chairlift,
making a total hike of 4 to 6 hours. That night we'll visit the
traditional home of a Bulgarian "granny" for a celebratory meal, the
perfect way to end this magic week.
Walking Time = 4-6 hours; ascent and descent is about 1800 ft.
July 13:
Leaving the Rila Mountains we head north to Sofia. We'll have a short
guided tour and then some free time to enjoy the sights of the capital city of Bulgaria, before getting on the plane for home or on to the next
adventure